Saturday 31 January 2015

Stafford Castle, Staffordshire

Dominating the Stafford skyline, Stafford Castle is one of Stafford’s popular attractions amongst visitors and locals. Today there is a misconception amongst many people that Stafford Castle is only a nineteenth century folly, a whim of a wealthy family, but the history of Stafford Castle is one which dates back over nine hundred years.

The Normans are generally credited with bringing the concept of castles into Britain and following on from William the Conqueror’s invasion wooden and stone castles appeared across the nation. Stafford Castle was one of the earliest of Norman castles constructed in the country.

Stafford Castle - Geni - CC-BY-SA-3.0
The Battle of Hastings gave the Norman’s victory but did not end resistance, and over the following years Saxon rebellions occurred across the country. One such rebellion occurred in 1069 although it was crushed at the Battle of Stafford. Two years later another rebellion was planned by Edwin Earl of Mercia and his brother, Morcar, the former Earl of Northumberland. Edwin though was assassinated before the rebellion could get underway, and William I took Edwin’s lands for the crown, this land included Stafford. William divided the land out amongst his retinue, with the Stafford area being given over to Robert de Tonei (sometimes referred to as Robert de Tosny). Robert of Stafford, as he became known, then set about building a wooden castle to suppress any thoughts of further rebellion.

The initial Stafford Castle appears to have been short lived, with the wooden structure gone within twenty years, although subsequently a new stone built castle was constructed on the same site, in the standard method of motte and bailey. A stone keep though was only constructed in 1347 when Ralph Stafford found fame and fortune as a favourite of Edward III. It was Edward III who granted the rights to crenellate as well as bestowing the tile of earl of Stafford and member of the Order of the Garter on Ralph.

In the time of Henry VIII thought he Staffords would fall out of favour, with the rectangular shaped castle falling into a degree of repair, although still inhabitable. During the English Civil War Stafford Castle would prove to be a defendable position, and Lady Isabel Stafford would hold the castle as a royalist stronghold. It held out against one siege, although it would fall to Parliamentarian hands in June 1643. As with the majority of Royalist castles it was then destroyed to prevent future use against parliament.

Interior of Stafford Castle - geni - CC-BY-SA-4.0
The destruction was one of the more effective undertaken, with Stafford castle reduced to foundation levels. In this state it remained until the end of the eighteenth century when the site passed into the hands of the Jerningham family. Sir William Jerningham would do some excavations, although it was his son Edward Jerningham who in 1813 would make use of the foundations to rebuild Stafford Castle. The rebuild was done in Gothic style, in the style that the Georgians believed the castle would have looked at the time of Ralph Stafford. This has lead to the belief that the castle is only a Georgian folly.

The Jerninghams though rarely made use of the rebuilt castle, and instead it was passed into the care of a series of caretakers, with little money spent on the upkeep of the castle. By the early 1960’s Stafford Castle was in a bad state of repair, and largely open to the elements. Lord Stafford would pass over ownership of Stafford Castle in 1961 to Stafford Borough Council. The Council would be forced to pull down large parts of the stonework to ensure that it was safe, but eventually Stafford Castle would open to the public.

Today Stafford Castle remains open to the public, with a visitor centre and a trail to follow around the buildings and grounds. Stafford Castle is also a venue for events throughout the year, including the popular performances of Shakespeare plays and medieval re-enactments.

A visit to Stafford Castle gives people the chance to find out about the history of one of Britain’s oldest castles, and although not original the ruins of the castle do make for some interesting viewing.

Copyright - First Published 25th October 2010

Sunday 25 January 2015

Harlech Castle, Gwynedd

Located on a cliff top that overlooks the Irish Sea, Harlech Castle is often said to be one of the greatest of all British buildings, despite being over seven hundred years old. Once an important symbol of English might, today the Welsh castle attracts thousands of visitors each year.
Built in Gwynedd upon the orders of Edward I, Harlech Castle would become one of the iron ring of forts in Wales.

Designed and built by Master James of St George, from 1283 through 1289, the aim of Harlech Castle was to prevent Welsh insurrection. The successful design of the castle ensured that Harlech Castle would prove to be a difficult castle to take.

Harlech Castle - Cadw - Open Gov v1
Within five years of completion Harlech Castle was besieged by Madog ap Llywelyn; surviving due to the foresight which saw a defendable slipway to the sea constructed. This slipway enabled supplies to be shipped in.

In 1404 though, the castle did fall to the forces of Owain Glyndwr, with the castle subsequently being the virtual capital of the dissident Welsh nation. The Welsh forces themselves though would succumb to an English siege in 1408.

Harlech Castle is arguably most famous for the seven year siege during the war of the Roses, when the castle was the last Lancastrian stronghold to fall. This siege would give rise to the song Men of Harlech, a military song linked with Welsh regiments, and immortalised in the 1964 film, Zulu.
Even into the seventeenth century, when gunpowder was now widely utilised on the battlefield, Harlech Castle would prove to be nigh on impregnable. The castle proved to be the last Royalist stronghold during the English Civil War, only surrendering once the war was lost.

Following the end of the English Civil War, Harlech Castle was rendered useless as a fortification by the Parliamentarian forces. The destruction though was not so severe as with other Royalist strongholds, and even today what is left is an impressive castle.

Castell Harlech - Eirian Evans - CC-BY-SA-2.0
Harlech Castle is now overseen by Cadw, the Welsh version of English Heritage and Historic Scotland.

Cadw ensure that the castle is kept in good condition and open to the public. Part of the cost of this upkeep is offset by a small entrance fee levied to gain access to the castle.

Details of admission prices, as well as opening hours, can be checked on the Cadw webpage for Harlech Castle, and it is certainly worth checking before travelling as both are subject to change. The price of admission is very reasonable, especially compared with entrance fees for other historical monuments across Britain.

Access to Harlech Castle is gained via the village of Harlech which has grown alongside the castle. From a distance away though the castle can be easily viewed, and the imposing site that it was in the thirteenth century, has hardly been diminished with the passage of time.

Entrance through the imposing gatehouse on the eastern face of the castle offers the first chance to really see the strength of Harlech Castle.

The gatehouse was the only area of the castle that was vulnerable to attack, but it itself was guarded by three portcullises. The basic design of the concentric castle can still be seen and walked around today, although the magnificent outer walls are but a small portion of what they once were.
The towers of the castle lead to wall walks although some areas of the castle buildings are cordoned off because of possible structural instabilities. As you wander around the castle impressive views over land and sea can be gained.

Harlech Castle - Pat Barton - CC-BY-SA-2.0
Many of the other buildings that were hemmed behind the castle walls have gone, although foundations can be easily seen.

Harlech Castle nonetheless is a great place to visit, most children will love to explore the semi-ruins, and time a visit correctly, and there might even be re-enactments going on. The Harlech Medieval Society do put on displays with knights fighting and other medieval activities.

Amenities on site are limited to a small shop and toilets, but the town of Harlech offers everything else needed to really make a day of visiting the town and castle.

Visiting the ruins of a castle may not be to everyone’s liking, but Harlech Castle does for those interested inform about the history of Wales and its rivalry with England, whilst the building is an impressive feat of engineering.

Copyright - First Published 21st October 2010

Tuesday 20 January 2015

Peveril Castle, Derbyshire

Situated at the heart of the Peak District the ruins of Peveril Castle can be found at the centre of a triangle made up of Stockport to the west, Sheffield to the east and Buxton to the south. Today the ruins are a popular destination for hikers, historically though Peveril Castle was an important stronghold.

Peveril Castle is one of the oldest examples of castles still in existence today. The first parts of the castle were constructed shortly after the Norman invasion of 1066 by William Peveril, or Peverel. William was given the title of Bailiff of the Royal manors of the Peak, and was certainly one of William the Conquerors most trusted knights, and also possibly his illegitimate son. The first buildings on the site were wooden, but by 1090 a large portion of the castle was stone. Strategically placed the castle would offer protection to silver and lead mines in the vicinity, and would also be a deterrent to any Scottish attempts to expand from the Cumbrian land that they held at the time.

Peveril Castle Keep - simon gray - CC-BY-SA-2.0
The castle passed into the hands of William Peveril the Younger in 1114 upon his father’s death, although the son would spend more time in improving Bolsover Castle than Peveril Castle. In 1155 though the castle was given over to the crown. Henry II confiscated the castle and surrounding lands shortly before Peveril’s death, Peveril having been implicated in the poisoning of the Earl of Chester.
Henry II improved the castle, and was paid homage by Malcolm IV of Scotland there. Henry II would visit the castle on at least three occasions during his reign. During the Baron’s revolt of King John’s reign the castle would see some action and was forcible taken by the King’s forces, although little details of actual events are known. The castle would remain property of the monarchs of England and their families through to the reign of Henry IV, although by the start of the fifteenth century the castle was left to fall into decay. Used occasionally as a courthouse and a farm outbuilding, the ruins as seen today are due to neglect and not because of any action during either the War of the Roses or English Civil War.

Peveril Castle and Peak District - George Griffin - CC-BY-SA-2.0
The remnants though of Peveril Castle though have been preserved through the efforts of English Heritage who took over ownership of the castle in 1932.

Those wishing to visit the ruins of Peveril Castle today will need to pay a small admission charge to English Heritage, details of which can be found on the English Heritage website.

Access comes after a walk up the steep hill above the village of Castleton, the castle sitting some 200 feet above the village. Entrance is via a twelfth century gate house, and it and its adjoining curtain walls have weather well, as has the small stone keep built at a similar time. Other buildings within the castle walls have faired less well, but the foundations of the Great Hall and kitchens can be clearly seen.

Model of how Peveril Castle once looked - simon gray - CC-BY-SA-2.0
From the remains of Peveril Castle spectacular views across the Peak District can be obtained, with Hope Valley, Cave Dale, Mam Tor and Hollins Cross clearly visible.

A trip to Peveril Castle is well worth it, even if it is just for the views that can be had. The castle though is also a fine example, and for something that is almost a thousand years old, it is relatively fine upkeep.

Copyright - First Published 20th October 2010

Thursday 15 January 2015

Lancaster Castle, Lancashire

The historic castles of Britain are amongst the most well known of all of the country’s buildings. Many, including the likes of Warwick Castle, are popular tourist attractions, open to the public. Lancaster Castle though is perhaps unique, as although it is a historic castle, a Grade 1 Listed Building, and situated on ground classed as a Scheduled Ancient Monument, it has also been a functioning court and category C grade prison. This though, doesn’t prevent it being one of the most popular tourist attractions in Lancaster, Lancashire for many years.

The site of Lancaster caste is owned by the Duchy of Lancaster, and therefore the British monarch, with buildings maintained by Lancashire County Council, and prison buildings leased to the prison service. The route by which Lancaster Castle came into being and ultimately into the hands of the monarch is one which takes in many of the most important aspects of English history.

Lancaster Castle Main Gate - Tom Oates - CC-BY-SA-3.0
The site of Lancaster Castle, on a hill in the city centre, was occupied by a series of Roman forts, the first of which dated from about 79AD. The site of course came into prominence with the construction of stone castle buildings, starting somewhere around 1090AD by William II. The castle was owned by Roger de Poitou, although a falling out with Henry I saw the castle pass into the hands of the king. It was from this period that Lancaster Castle’s Keep was built. The Keep is twenty metres tall with walls up to three metres thick.

The castle was owned by King Stephen, and saw action in his civil war with Matilda, and subsequently ownership passed to Richard the Lionheart, who gave the castle to his brother John. By the thirteenth century Lancaster Castle was one of the most heavily fortified in the region. By this point though the need for a heavily fortified castle in the area diminished, and much of the later work was more aesthetical than defensive.

Shire Hall, Lancaster Castle - Ian Taylor - CC-BY-SA-2.0
The most famous elements of Lancaster Castle include the Well Tower, or Witches’ Tower, consisting of dungeons and wells. It was here that the Pendle Witches were held whilst awaiting trial and conviction. Hadrian’s tower is nearby and is another old feature of the castle, although not as old as the Roman Emperor Hadrian, who legend says built the tower. There is also the John O’Gaunt Gatehouse, a twin towered gatehouse, and considered one of the finest of any gatehouse in England.

Lancaster Castle saw more work in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries when the castle was put into full time use as a court and prison. The Shire Hall was constructed in this period, with the hall now showing of hundreds of heraldic devices. Lancaster castle is home to the court room that has been in operation of the longest continuous time and was the court where thousands of people were deported to Australia. The court is also said to have passed more death sentences than any other court in England, although it is a dubious record that might also be given to a number of London courts.

Lancaster Castle from Above - Nuttytimmy - CC-BY-SA-3.0
Up until 2011 Lancaster Castle was still home to HMP Lancaster Caste. The prison of course meant that large areas of the prison complex, including the dungeons, battlements and keep, were off limits to the general public. There were though areas that could be visited, and the history of the castle could be learnt about, as part of a guided tour around the open areas of the castle.

Guided tours operate very day, except Christmas Day and New Year’s Day, from 10.30am through to 4.00pm. The nature of the guided tour does vary depending upon what court sessions, and prison activity is being undertaken. Additionally there are also special events held at Lancaster Castle throughout the year. It is a good idea to phone through to the booking office for a space on a guided tour, and to find out about events, as at peak times Lancaster Castle can get very busy. Plans are afoot to make more of what should be one of Lancaster's premier tourist attractions.

For those interested in the history of England then Lancaster Castle is a great place to visit, and indeed the castle remains one of the best examples of medieval architecture in the country.

Copyright - First Published 22nd August 2010

Saturday 10 January 2015

Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire

Blenheim Palace plays a unique role within Britain, and is the only palace that is neither royal or church built or owned. It is though much more than just an anomaly and the eighteenth century stately home is visited every years by hundreds of thousands of tourists each and every year.

Blenheim Palace is situated in the beautiful Oxfordshire countryside, and is only eight miles outside of Oxford itself at Woodstock. Three hundred years old Blenheim Palace has also been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. The construction of Blenheim Palace began in 1705, and was originally intended to be a gift from a grateful nation to reward the military leadership of John Churchill. Churchill had proven himself an inspired tactician and had brought success against the French and Bavarians, including the notable Battle of Blenheim.

Blenheim Palace - gailf548 - CC-BY-SA-2.0
The palace was constructed in the English baroque style from the designs of Sir John Vanburgh. It is an impressive site that still greets the eye of the visitor as they make their way up towards the building. The 1st Duke of Marlborough was in and out of favour after 1705 but by 1717 Churchill was once again a national hero and resided in the palace, although he did not live to see its completion in 1724. The history of Blenheim Palace has much in common with the fortunes of the Dukes of Marlborough and the palace and family itself was saved from ruin by marrying into money with the Vanderbilt fortune.

The building still retains the eighteenth century grandeur including the large courtyards and gateways. The interior of the palace though has changed greatly over the years, although today it has been restored to a splendid finish. Some of the tapestries, porcelain and hand finished ceilings found within the staterooms of Blenheim Palace are breathtaking.

The history of Blenheim Palace though is more than just the home of the 1st Duke of Marlborough, as it was also the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill, British Prime Minister and War time leader.
Although still the home to the Dukes of Marlborough, Blenheim Palace is open to the paying public from the middle of February until the middle of December. Even outside of these months though, the park and pleasure are still open. It is best to check with the ticket office of Blenheim Palace to make sure that the grounds and palace are open. Admission varies depending on what areas of the palace you are looking to visit.

Blenheim Palace from the South - Ohcloudsunfold - Released into PD
More than the traditional stately home though, Blenheim Palace has evolved and is now a thriving business, all needed to justify the admission price. Blenheim Palace if of course set in two thousand acres of immaculate parkland and formal gardens. The parkland itself remains true to the original plans of “Capability” Brown, and still contains the original lake and boathouse. Water plays a big part on the make up of the grounds, including the Grand Cascade and fountains and water terraces.

The Library at Blenheim - Jvhertum - Released into PD
The gardens themselves are enough for some people but the price of admission also includes free rides upon the miniature railway built in the grounds. For the young, and also the young at heart there is the Marlborough Maze and adventure playground, and the Butterfly House is also a great way to pass some time. Those interested in the more historical elements of Blenheim Palace will also find the visitor experiences of “Blenheim Palace The Untold Story” as well as “Churchills’ Destiny”.

To me it is the perfect day out, the relaxing elements of the garden and parklands offset beautifully by the history and elegance of Blenheim Palace itself. England is blessed by its history and is rightfully proud of its grand houses and more people should take the opportunity offered to them to take in this history.

Copyright - First Published 27th October 2008

Monday 5 January 2015

Maiden Castle, Dorset

Dorset is considered to be one of the most historic of all English counties, and there is evidence of inhabitants dating back to thousands of years before the Roman conquest. One piece of evidence that can not be overlooked is the hill fort of Maiden Castle, situated just two miles outside of the Roman town of Dorchester.
Maiden Castle from the Air - Major George Allen (1891–1940) - PD-life-70

Dorset and the wider area of Wessex is full of hill forts, but Maiden Castle is by far and away the largest to be found anywhere in England. For those thinking that there is a castle on the site in the more traditional use of the term will be disappointed. Maiden Castle was constructed many thousands of years before the Normans started on their construction of large stone castles, instead the term hill fort is more apt, as defence is produce through the manipulation of the earth. There is evidence to suggest that the title of Maiden Castle comes about from the Celtic term, “Mai Dun” which means “great hill”.

Construction of Maiden Castle is though to have begun somewhere around 4000BC, with a Neolithic enclosure. Over the next thousand years banks, ditches and ramparts were constructed, as well as five hundred metre barrow, a barrow being a mound covering graves.

Maiden Castle as it looks today was thought to have been constructed around 600BC when the existing defensive positions were extended to form three rings of defensive points and offset entrances. The ramparts would have been made even more impressive by the addition of wooden palisades on the tops of the most strategic of points.
Maiden Castle Defensive Ditches - Ray Beer - CC-BY-SA-2.0
Maiden Castle is known to have been a stronghold of the Celtic Durotriges tribe by the time that the Romans arrived in Britain. Maiden Castle though was more than just a defensive encampment and during times of peace acted more as a town would, with a population of several hundred, as well as cattle and livestock.

In AD43 the invading Roman army reached Maiden Castle, it has long been proposed that there was a bloody battle that took place on the site. During the 1930s excavations undertaken by Mortimer Wheeler suggested that the 2nd and 8th Legions under the leadership of Verspasian took on the Iron Age army encamped in the hill fort. There is contradicting evidence about whether a battle took place or not, although I personally believe that the uncovering of up to forty bodies of Durotriges soldiers does indicate a bloody fight for Maiden Castle. Despite the years of erosion of the banks, and the infilling of the trenches, it is still easy to visualise just how difficult any attack against the fortifications must have been.

After the Roman conquest of Dorset, the Romans briefly made use of the site, even building their own temple inside the fortifications of Maiden Castle. The temple was used as a point of worship to Minerva and Diana, but the main focus of Roman attention was focused on Poundbury Hill as well as Durnovaria (Dorchester). After the fourth century AD Maiden Castle seems to have been abandoned for good, and even Saxons made sparse use of the fortifications.

Other than the banks of the hill fort, there is little to see at Maiden Castle, with most artefacts having been removed during the excavations of the 1930s. For those interested in seeing some of the Roman and Iron Age remains then a trip to the Dorset County Museum in Dorchester is well worth a visit.
Rings of Maiden Castle -Slideshow Bob - CC-BY-SA-2.0
In a time when there seems to be a cost associated with everything it is perhaps refreshing to know that although maintained by English Heritage there is no direct cost involved in visiting Maiden Castle. Open to the public every day of the year, including Christmas Day, once you have parked in the large free car park, situated at the end of Maiden Castle Road, you are free to wander all over the hill fort.

It is also a good idea to take a few minutes to read through the information boards that are positioned around the car park as they do provide a useful insight into the whole history of the site.

There is not a huge amount to do at Maiden Castle, and as a result a lot of the visitors to the hill fort are mostly those who like to ramble. It is though a relaxing place to visit and as long as you don’t mind a lot of walking it is well worth at least one visit.

Copyright - First Published 20th November 2011