Oystermouth Castle, West Glamorgan

Oystermouth Castle (Castell Ystum Llwynarth) is one of the handful of castle ruins to be found in and around the Welsh city of Swansea. Wales is well known for its castles and castle ruins, there being over 400 in the country, and Oystermouth Castle was one constructed in the heyday of castle building.

Building of Oystermouth Castle occurred in c1106AD, a period when the Norman Conquest of England had expanded into Wales, to deal with Welsh raids. Glamorgan had finally fallen to the Normans, under the leadership of Robert Fitzhamon, and land was given over to his favourite supporters. William de Londres was one of these favourites and so, on a hill overlooking Swansea Bay, Oystermouth Castle was built.

Oystermouth Castle - TeleD - CC-zero

Oystermouth Castle, and other castles of the period, were constructed to help subjugate the troublesome Welsh. Several periods of building was undertaken from 1106 through to c1300AD; and the castle had to be rebuilt on at least two occasions, it being burnt down by the Welsh in 1116 and 1137.

Oystermouth Castle was far from an impregnable fortress, as the Welsh took Oystermouth Castle in 1215, and held it for 5 years before it was retaken by the English.

At this point Oystermouth Castle would become a property owned by the De Braose family, and it was they who invested the most money in improving the defences of the castle, and also the living quarters of the building. Edward I would visit the castle in 1284, but subsequently, Oystermouth Castle, would start to lose its importance.

Oystermouth Castle - Jennifer Luther Thomas - CC-BY-SA-2.0

Military endeavours by Edward I, and the building of more powerful castles, did much to contain Welsh rebellions, and when the de Broase family moved their seat of power from Oystermouth Castle, the building started to fall into ruin from about 1300AD.

In 1927, the ruins of Oystermouth Castle were passed over to the Swansea Corporation.

Today, Oystermouth Castle is still owned by the City and County of Swansea, although the running of the castle is undertaken by the “Friends of Oystermouth Castle”. This volunteer group ensures that the castle is open to the public, and so those who travel to the village of Mumbles, and then travel uphill to the village of Oystermouth, can visit the picturesque castle ruins.

Details of opening hours and admission costs are available online.

Drum Castle, Aberdeenshire

Dating back to the time of Robert the Bruce, Drum Castle is one of Scotland’s finest castles. Construction commenced in the 13^th Century, and in the years that followed additions and embellishments improved the look and comfort levels.

Originally Drum Castle was a royal hunting lodge, but in 1323 it was given to William de Irwyn by Robert the Bruce for faithful support over many years. Subsequently, Drum Castle would become the seat of the Clan Irvine for 650 years.

Drum Castle - Nick Bramhall - CC-BY-SA-2.0

The wealth and prestige of the Clan Irvine would increase over the years, reaching its peak in the 17^th Century. The wealth of the family would see an impressive Jacobean extension added to the original square tower in 1619, but as the century went on the fortunes of Drum Castle plummeted.

During the Civil War, the Laird of Drum was a staunch royalist, and so the castle was an obvious target for parliamentarians, or in the cases of Scotland, Convenaners. During the Civil War, Drum Castle was besieged twice, and played host to hostile garrisons on four occasions.

The garrisoning of the castle saw Drum Castle looted, and the estates damaged, although structural damage to the castle was minimal.

After the Civil War, and the eventual Restoration, the fortunes of Drum Castle did not recover, and the estate was sold off. It was only due to some friendly neighbours that Drum Castle remained in the hands of the Irvines. In the 18^th Century, the Irvinces would be on the losing side during the Jacobite Rebellion, and for a brief time the Laird of Drum had to abandon his home.

Drum Castle - Craig Burgess - CC-BY-SA-2.0

Into the 19^th Century, Drum Castle and the Lairds of Drum started to recover, and a large extension in the Victorian style, was added in 1876, but a century later Drum Castle was passed over to the nation, and from 1975 it has been run by the National Trust for Scotland.

10 miles west of Aberdeen, and close to Peterculter, today, Drum Castle is a popular tourist attraction, as well as wedding venue. Situated in the heart of Royal Deeside, the castle is open to the public during the summer months, with the grounds open outside of these times. Details of opening times and admission charges can be found on the NTS website.

Dunluce Castle, County Antrim

Situated near to the Giant’s Causeway is another of Northern Ireland’s icons, Dunluce Castle. Built upon a basalt outcrop, Dunluce is now a ruin, linked to the mainland by a bridge. Once though, it was a seat of power in County Antrim.

Some form of defensive structure was probably in situ from about 500AD, but the castle, as known today, was first recorded in 1513, when it was owned by the McQuillan family.

The McQuillan family, as powerhouses of “the Route”, were usurped by the MacDonnells who arrived from Islay. Defeated in battle, the McQuillans were evicted from Dunluce Castle, and it became the seat of Sorley Boy MacDonnell from about 1565.

Dunluce Castle - Osioni - Released into PD

The English forces in Ireland would briefly kick out the MacDonnells, but once Sorley Boy MacDonnell pledged allegiance to Queen Elizabeth I, it once again became the seat of the MacDonnell family. In truth though, the castle was in a precarious position, and when in 1639, part of the castle fell into the sea, its days were numbered.

Within a couple of decades the MacDonnells had moved out, and eventually a new castle was constructed at Glen Arm, and from about 1690 no more money was spent on the upkeep of the castle.

The ruins of Dunluce Castle are located between Portrush and Bushmills, and are open to the public. The castle is managed by the Northern Irish Environment Agency, and they detail the admission charges and opening times, although the castle itself is still owned by the MacDonnell family.

Dunluce Castle - Osioni - Released into PD

The ruins of Dunluce Castle are evocative, and many people go to view it partially for its picturesque nature, partially as it is thought to be the inspiration for CS Lewis’ Cair Paravel, and partially as it is a double for Pyke Casltle from the Game of Thrones.

As with many old castles, there is a ghost story associated with Dunluce Castle, and Maeve Roe McQuillan is the haunting figure. Maeve Roe was the daughter of Lord mcQuillan, but when she refused to marry the man her father wanted her to, she was locked in one of Dunluce’s towers.

An attempt escape was mounted by Maeve Roe’s true love, Reginald O’Cahan, but when both lovers were killed in the attempt, Maeve Roe’s ghost was then said to clean her former prison room each night.

Dunster Castle, Somerset

Situated on the very edge of Exmoor National Park is Dunster Castle; a castle and manor house that has a history that predates the Norman Conquest of 1066.

Dunster is a small medieval village, three miles from Minehead, which is popular with tourists. Overlooking the village, from a hill known as the Tor, is Dunster Castle, a property now owned by the National Trust.

Over a period of 900 years, Dunster Castle has been effectively owned by just three parties; firstly the de Mohun family, then the Luttrells and finally the National Trust. Over this period though, the fortunes of Dunster Castle have mirrored the fortunes and finances of its owners, with building work occurring when fortunes were good, and dereliction occurring in more austere times.

Dunster Castle - marcntomsmum0 - CC-zero

The site of Dunster Castle was being used as a fortification before the Norman Conquest, but after the arrival of King William, the manor of Dunster was passed into the keeping of William de Mohun, a soldier who had fought at the Battle of Hastings.

William de Mohun was charged with helping to prevent rebellion in Somerset, and to help subjugate the population a motte and bailey castle was constructed. Money and labour for this endeavour, and subsequent improvements, came from the tenants who now lived and farmed on de Mohun land.

In a relatively brief period an impressive stone castle was constructed, and within 80 years of construction Dunster Castle was being used as a defensive position during the Anarchy, as forces loyal to Stephen and those loyal to Matilda fought.

Holding out against Stephen’s forces Dunster Castle would remain in de Mohun hands until 1376, when because of mounting debts, Dunster Castle was sold to the Luttrell family.

The Luttrells were fierce Royalists for most of their history, and a Luttrell would normally be found fighting alongside the monarch during any notable conflict for hundreds of years. This gave them a favoured position, but did not always provide the finances to ensure that Dunster Castle was kept as it should be. Through until the 17^th Century, Dunster Castle was improved and made more comfortable, but also left abandoned on occasion.

View of Dunster Castle - Haxxah and KraZug - CC-BY-2.0

The fortunes of Dunster Castle took a serious nose dive during the English Civil War, when it ended the war as a Royalist stronghold. Thus at the end of the war, like so many Norman castles, it was virtually destroyed to prevent it being used against Parliament in the future. Dunster Castle though was lucky, as only the defensive walls were destroyed, and the living quarters were left intact.

Into the Georgian and Victorian period Dunster Castle was sometimes occupied by a Luttrell, and sometimes left empty. When improvements were made, Jacobian features were replaced with Georgian styling, and then Victorian features would enhance the Georgian ones.

Eventually though, in 1976, DunsterCastle was passed into the care of English Heritage, and so the castle was opened to the public as a tourist attraction, and today it is one of Somerset’s most popular attractions. The castle and grounds are opening to members of English Heritage and members of the public willing to spend a small entrance fee. The grounds are very popular, and there is a mile long walk that takes in some spectacular views of Exmoor and the Bristol Channel.

Stafford Castle, Staffordshire

Dominating the Stafford skyline, Stafford Castle is one of Stafford’s popular attractions amongst visitors and locals. Today there is a misconception amongst many people that Stafford Castle is only a nineteenth century folly, a whim of a wealthy family, but the history of Stafford Castle is one which dates back over nine hundred years.

The Normans are generally credited with bringing the concept of castles into Britain and following on from William the Conqueror’s invasion wooden and stone castles appeared across the nation. Stafford Castle was one of the earliest of Norman castles constructed in the country.

Stafford Castle - Geni - CC-BY-SA-3.0

The Battle of Hastings gave the Norman’s victory but did not end resistance, and over the following years Saxon rebellions occurred across the country. One such rebellion occurred in 1069 although it was crushed at the Battle of Stafford. Two years later another rebellion was planned by Edwin Earl of Mercia and his brother, Morcar, the former Earl of Northumberland. Edwin though was assassinated before the rebellion could get underway, and William I took Edwin’s lands for the crown, this land included Stafford. William divided the land out amongst his retinue, with the Stafford area being given over to Robert de Tonei (sometimes referred to as Robert de Tosny). Robert of Stafford, as he became known, then set about building a wooden castle to suppress any thoughts of further rebellion.

The initial Stafford Castle appears to have been short lived, with the wooden structure gone within twenty years, although subsequently a new stone built castle was constructed on the same site, in the standard method of motte and bailey. A stone keep though was only constructed in 1347 when Ralph Stafford found fame and fortune as a favourite of Edward III. It was Edward III who granted the rights to crenellate as well as bestowing the tile of earl of Stafford and member of the Order of the Garter on Ralph.

In the time of Henry VIII thought he Staffords would fall out of favour, with the rectangular shaped castle falling into a degree of repair, although still inhabitable. During the English Civil War Stafford Castle would prove to be a defendable position, and Lady Isabel Stafford would hold the castle as a royalist stronghold. It held out against one siege, although it would fall to Parliamentarian hands in June 1643. As with the majority of Royalist castles it was then destroyed to prevent future use against parliament.

Interior of Stafford Castle - geni - CC-BY-SA-4.0

The destruction was one of the more effective undertaken, with Stafford castle reduced to foundation levels. In this state it remained until the end of the eighteenth century when the site passed into the hands of the Jerningham family. Sir William Jerningham would do some excavations, although it was his son Edward Jerningham who in 1813 would make use of the foundations to rebuild Stafford Castle. The rebuild was done in Gothic style, in the style that the Georgians believed the castle would have looked at the time of Ralph Stafford. This has lead to the belief that the castle is only a Georgian folly.

The Jerninghams though rarely made use of the rebuilt castle, and instead it was passed into the care of a series of caretakers, with little money spent on the upkeep of the castle. By the early 1960’s Stafford Castle was in a bad state of repair, and largely open to the elements. Lord Stafford would pass over ownership of Stafford Castle in 1961 to Stafford Borough Council. The Council would be forced to pull down large parts of the stonework to ensure that it was safe, but eventually Stafford Castle would open to the public.

Today Stafford Castle remains open to the public, with a visitor centre and a trail to follow around the buildings and grounds. Stafford Castle is also a venue for events throughout the year, including the popular performances of Shakespeare plays and medieval re-enactments.

A visit to Stafford Castle gives people the chance to find out about the history of one of Britain’s oldest castles, and although not original the ruins of the castle do make for some interesting viewing.

Copyright - First Published 25th October 2010

Harlech Castle, Gwynedd

Located on a cliff top that overlooks the Irish Sea, Harlech Castle is often said to be one of the greatest of all British buildings, despite being over seven hundred years old. Once an important symbol of English might, today the Welsh castle attracts thousands of visitors each year.
Built in Gwynedd upon the orders of Edward I, Harlech Castle would become one of the iron ring of forts in Wales.

Designed and built by Master James of St George, from 1283 through 1289, the aim of Harlech Castle was to prevent Welsh insurrection. The successful design of the castle ensured that Harlech Castle would prove to be a difficult castle to take.

Harlech Castle - Cadw - Open Gov v1

Within five years of completion Harlech Castle was besieged by Madog ap Llywelyn; surviving due to the foresight which saw a defendable slipway to the sea constructed. This slipway enabled supplies to be shipped in.

In 1404 though, the castle did fall to the forces of Owain Glyndwr, with the castle subsequently being the virtual capital of the dissident Welsh nation. The Welsh forces themselves though would succumb to an English siege in 1408.

Harlech Castle is arguably most famous for the seven year siege during the war of the Roses, when the castle was the last Lancastrian stronghold to fall. This siege would give rise to the song Men of Harlech, a military song linked with Welsh regiments, and immortalised in the 1964 film, Zulu.
Even into the seventeenth century, when gunpowder was now widely utilised on the battlefield, Harlech Castle would prove to be nigh on impregnable. The castle proved to be the last Royalist stronghold during the English Civil War, only surrendering once the war was lost.

Following the end of the English Civil War, Harlech Castle was rendered useless as a fortification by the Parliamentarian forces. The destruction though was not so severe as with other Royalist strongholds, and even today what is left is an impressive castle.

Castell Harlech - Eirian Evans - CC-BY-SA-2.0

Harlech Castle is now overseen by Cadw, the Welsh version of English Heritage and Historic Scotland.

Cadw ensure that the castle is kept in good condition and open to the public. Part of the cost of this upkeep is offset by a small entrance fee levied to gain access to the castle.

Details of admission prices, as well as opening hours, can be checked on the Cadw webpage for Harlech Castle, and it is certainly worth checking before travelling as both are subject to change. The price of admission is very reasonable, especially compared with entrance fees for other historical monuments across Britain.

Access to Harlech Castle is gained via the village of Harlech which has grown alongside the castle. From a distance away though the castle can be easily viewed, and the imposing site that it was in the thirteenth century, has hardly been diminished with the passage of time.

Entrance through the imposing gatehouse on the eastern face of the castle offers the first chance to really see the strength of Harlech Castle.

The gatehouse was the only area of the castle that was vulnerable to attack, but it itself was guarded by three portcullises. The basic design of the concentric castle can still be seen and walked around today, although the magnificent outer walls are but a small portion of what they once were.
The towers of the castle lead to wall walks although some areas of the castle buildings are cordoned off because of possible structural instabilities. As you wander around the castle impressive views over land and sea can be gained.

Harlech Castle - Pat Barton - CC-BY-SA-2.0

Many of the other buildings that were hemmed behind the castle walls have gone, although foundations can be easily seen.

Harlech Castle nonetheless is a great place to visit, most children will love to explore the semi-ruins, and time a visit correctly, and there might even be re-enactments going on. The Harlech Medieval Society do put on displays with knights fighting and other medieval activities.

Amenities on site are limited to a small shop and toilets, but the town of Harlech offers everything else needed to really make a day of visiting the town and castle.

Visiting the ruins of a castle may not be to everyone’s liking, but Harlech Castle does for those interested inform about the history of Wales and its rivalry with England, whilst the building is an impressive feat of engineering.

Copyright - First Published 21st October 2010